Jesus may have easily turned water into wine, but that task is a bit trickier for today's enologists.

More information American Society for Enology and Viticulture P.O. Box 1855 Davis, Calif. 95617 (916) 753-3142 Cornell University Institute of Food Science Mark McLellan, director (315) 787-2255

Enologists, or winemakers, are scientists who have to be skilled in chemistry, microbiology, viticulture and more in order to create quality wines. Then, of course, they need a sense of art.

"Grapes all have to be handled in a certain way,'' says Justin Morris, president of the eastern division of the American Society for Enology and Viticulture. "That knowledge comes with time and . . . what the winery wants to be known for.''

Most enologists spend time out in vineyards evaluating the quality of a grape crop and completely monitoring its production into wine.

But enologists also spend a lot of time in laboratories as researchers: Testing new ways to use grapes, working with fermentation processes, and studying how to prevent contamination by microorganisms.

Most enologists have a bachelor's degree in a technical field, like agriculture, chemistry or food science. They then obtain a graduate degree in food science with an enology emphasis.

During school, hands-on training is key. Some budding enologists even skip a semester to "work the crush'' at a winery to get the experience of harvest time, said Morris, also a professor at the University of Arkansas.

At Cornell University, which offers a graduate emphasis in fermentation science, about half of a student's time is spent doing hands-on work, said Mark McLellan, director of the Institute of Food Science.

Enologists don't need licenses. Instead, enologists are judged by the quality of wine they produce and how many industry medals they win.

Demand for enologists varies by state. California has plenty, but the East Coast always is in need of good enologists. Making wine in most of New York's 110 wineries is a special challenge because the grapes are more acidic.

Entry-level enologists earn about $30,000 and serve as assistants to chief winemakers at wineries, Morris said. Depending on their skills, their status -- and salary -- can rapidly grow.